FrenchQuarter.com: A Romantic’s Guide to the French Quarter

Easy to Love, Hard to Leave: A Romantic’s Guide to the French Quarter



	Top to Bottom: French Quarter Carriage Ride; Bella Luna Restaurant; Bacco Restaurant; Woldenberg Park; A Free Canal Street Ferry Ride.

The romantic heart pines for the improbable and extraordinary - that one-in-a-million love and compulsions that defy explanation. No wonder, then, that the French Quarter is such a popular destination for romantics.

The cultural love child of genteel old Europe, the exotic Caribbean and the sultry South, New Orleans' original colonial neighborhood sets the scene for memorable romantic getaways. This is a city that revels in its passions, and for the visitor with an open heart the sensuality here can be infectious. It is also a city where people come to celebrate, whether by joining the massive public exuberance of Mardi Gras and other events or marking personal milestones in the lives of lovers, such as honeymoons and anniversaries. When a couple raises a glass in toast to each other, it can seem as though the entire town is following suit here.

Part of the appeal of New Orleans is its relaxed pace - a key ingredient to any romantic experience - and a leisurely carriage ride for two is a romantic way to get acquainted with the neighborhood at the beginning of a visit. Various types of mule-drawn carriages are available for hire at Jackson Square on Decatur Street. Carriage drivers generally narrate their tours of the Quarter with stories of various landmark properties, but just let him or her know at the start that you prefer to concentrate on your companion's company and you will have a serene cruise past the beautiful architecture and colorful streetscapes of the Vieux Carre. Snuggle under a blanket on the occasional chilly evening or bask in the tropical sunshine during another beautiful New Orleans day.

The French Quarter's many elegant restaurants make ideal venues for special meals with loved ones. But while the city is most famous for its Creole cuisine, it is the Italian restaurants of the French Quarter that offer some of the most romantic settings.

Bella Luna (914 N. Peters St., 504-529-1583) tops the list for such establishments and its deep, luxurious banquet booths have been the scene for countless marriage proposals and champagne toasts. Apart from the fine Italian food, one of the features that truly distinguishes this place is its elevation on the second floor of a French Market building, placing its dining room windows above the levee and floodwalls and presenting an unparalleled vista of the Mississippi River. When the windows are open, as they often are on pleasant nights, the breeze rolling in from the river and the sounds of vessels headed out to the Gulf of Mexico charges the restaurant with irresistible romantic charm.

At the other end of the Quarter, closer to Canal Street, Cafe Giovanni (117 Decatur St., 504-529-2154) marries contemporary Creole cuisine with Italian food in an elegant setting made all the more romantic on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights when the restaurant hosts professional opera singers to entertain diners. Meanwhile, the vaulted plaster ceilings, subdued lighting and polished service at Bacco (310 Chartres St., 504-522-2426) - an Italian riff from New Orleans' famed Brennan family - help set a romantic tone to a dinner or even lunch in the Quarter.

Sometimes the simplest settings and arrangements make for the perfect romantic moment. Consider, for instance, a picnic along the Mississippi River at Woldenberg Riverfront Park or on a bench at Jackson Square with music provided by the ad hoc jazz group that performs for tips in front of the landmark Cabildo museum (701 Chartres St., 504-568-6968) each day. For picnic supplies, two people can easily split a single muffuletta sandwich from Central Grocery (923 Decatur St., 504-523-1620) while the nearby Johnny's Po-Boys (511 St. Louis St., 504-524-8129) offers a lengthy menu of New Orleans' famous French bread sandwiches stuffed with everything from cold cuts to fried seafood. Couples are also well-advised to take advantage of the city's liberal public-consumption laws and enjoy a bottle of wine, champagne or other libation during their open-air feast. Vieux Carre Wine & Spirits (422 Chartres St., 504-568-9463) has an extensive selection and helpfully provides plastic cups at the cash register.

With all the atmosphere of the French Quarter's streets, courtyards and historic buildings, it's possible to forget that one of the nation's most famous natural resources is flowing by mere blocks away. The levee that keeps the great Mississippi River at bay also keeps views of its majestic course to a minimum downtown. Those spots where the river can be clearly seen, however, provide fascinating vistas and a backdrop for unforgettable romantic moments.

Of course one of the best ways to get close to the river is to actually cruise over it. Free rides are available for pedestrians courtesy of the Canal Street ferry (cars are charged only $1). This commuter transit ferry departs throughout the day and night, until midnight, from the foot of Canal Street, next to the Aquarium of the Americas, and makes a quick, mile-long jog across the river to historic Old Algiers Point.

Though the ferry itself is utilitarian, it affords an unparalleled river experience and views of the city, especially at sunset or during the night when the skyline is illuminated. Stealing a kiss under the Dixie moon on the roiling waters of the Mississippi may become one of your most cherished memories of the trip.

Ian McNulty is a freelance food writer and columnist, a frequent commentator on the New Orleans entertainment talk show “Steppin’ Out” and editor of the guidebook “Hungry? Thirsty? New Orleans.”